Chopine

Shoemuseum Lausanne-IMG 7291

(Venice) Calcagnetti - Correr Museum

File:MFA chopine.jpg

MFA chopine

Chopine is a type of women's footwear that was popular in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, primarily in Venice, Italy. Chopines were platform shoes that could be made of wood, cork, or even metal and were often covered with expensive materials like leather, brocade, or velvet. They were worn for both practical and fashionable reasons, including protection from mud and street dirt, as well as to indicate the social status of the wearer. The height of the platform varied, but some could be as high as 20 inches, making them a symbol of both wealth and fashion, but also a challenge to walk in.

History and Purpose

The origins of the chopine can be traced back to the Middle Ages, but they became particularly popular in the Renaissance period. They were influenced by similar styles of elevated footwear found in other cultures, such as the pattens worn in medieval Europe for similar protective and practical purposes. In Venice, a city known for its canals and frequent flooding, chopines served the additional purpose of keeping the wearer's feet dry.

Chopines were more than just practical footwear; they were also a status symbol. The height of the chopine often correlated with the wearer's social standing, with higher platforms indicating higher social status. This fashion led to some extreme designs, with some chopines reportedly being so high that maids had to assist the wearers in walking.

Cultural Impact

The popularity of chopines spread beyond Italy to other parts of Europe, such as Spain and France, although they were often met with criticism. Moralists of the time argued that chopines were immodest and exaggerated, while others saw them as a dangerous vanity that could lead to physical harm due to the risk of falling.

Despite the criticism, chopines remained a powerful symbol of femininity and social status. They were often featured in contemporary art and literature, reflecting their significance in Renaissance culture. However, by the end of the 17th century, the fashion for chopines began to decline, replaced by other styles of elevated footwear and eventually disappearing from mainstream fashion.

Design and Construction

Chopines were constructed from a variety of materials. The base could be made from wood, cork, or metal, which was then shaped into a platform. The height of the platform varied, but all were designed to elevate the wearer significantly above the ground. The platforms were then covered with luxurious materials such as leather, velvet, or brocade, and sometimes embellished with jewels or embroidery, reflecting the wealth and status of the wearer.

The shoes themselves were often secured to the foot with ribbons or ties, and the upper part of the shoe could be equally ornate, designed to be seen above the long dresses of the period. Despite their impracticality, chopines were a testament to the skilled craftsmanship of shoemakers of the time.

Legacy

While chopines are no longer worn today, they have left a lasting impact on the history of fashion and footwear. They are often cited as an early example of fashion's power to dictate impractical trends for the sake of status and appearance. Chopines can be seen in museums around the world, where they continue to fascinate and remind us of the lengths to which fashion can take us.