Kohl (cosmetics)

كحل الاثمد (1)

Double cosmetic tube Louvre MNC1825

Kohl Tube LACMA M.76.97.81

Kohl Container Inscribed for Queen Tiye LACMA M.80.198.89

Musicians and dancers on fresco at Tomb of Nebamun

Kohl is a traditional cosmetic used primarily in the Middle East, North Africa, South Asia, and West Africa to darken the eyelids and as mascara for the eyelashes. It is applied widely across different cultures mainly for its perceived benefits in reducing glare, protecting the eyes from direct sunlight, and repelling flies in desert conditions. Kohl has been used since ancient times, with evidence of its application dating back to the Ancient Egyptian civilization, where it was not only a cosmetic but also held spiritual and protective significance.

History

The use of kohl dates back to the Predynastic period of Egypt, around 4000 BCE, where it was used by both men and women. It was made from a variety of materials, including galena, which is a natural mineral form of lead sulfide, and other substances like malachite, charcoal, and soot. Ancient Egyptians believed kohl could ward off evil spirits and improve the wearer's sight. Its use was not purely cosmetic; it also had religious and cultural significance.

In addition to its use in Egypt, kohl was also popular in other ancient civilizations, including the Indus Valley Civilization, Mesopotamia, and among the Hebrews, as referenced in the Hebrew Bible. Its use spread over time to the Arabian Peninsula, where it became an integral part of Islamic culture, and to the Indian subcontinent, where it is known as kajal.

Composition

Traditional kohl is made from a variety of substances, with the primary ingredient being galena or lead sulfide. Other ingredients can include sulfur, antimony, manganese, and organic materials like ghee or almond oil, which help in applying the powder. However, the use of lead in kohl has raised health concerns, leading to the development of lead-free kohl products that use ingredients like zinc oxide, iron oxide, and charcoal for color.

Application

Kohl is traditionally applied using a small stick, which can be made from wood, metal, or plastic. The stick is dipped into the kohl powder and then applied to the lower and upper eyelids. In some cultures, it is also applied to infants and children, with the belief that it can prevent eye infections and improve eyesight.

Cultural Significance

Kohl holds significant cultural importance in many societies. In the Middle East and North Africa, it is often associated with beauty and fashion. In South Asia, it is a standard part of women's makeup routines and is also used during religious and cultural ceremonies. In West Africa, kohl is used not only for cosmetic purposes but also for its perceived medicinal properties.

Health Concerns

The traditional preparation of kohl involves substances that can be harmful to health, particularly lead sulfide. Lead poisoning can result from the regular application of kohl, leading to serious health issues, including neurological damage and delayed development in children. As a result, many countries have regulations in place to limit the lead content in cosmetic products, including kohl.

Modern Usage

Today, kohl is available in both traditional and modern formulations. Modern kohl products are designed to mimic the appearance of traditional kohl but are made from safer, non-toxic materials. These products are popular worldwide and are used by people of all cultures for both everyday and special occasion makeup looks.

Kohl (cosmetics) Resources
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